Skip to main content

Composting

Composting is nature's way of recycling, turning kitchen and garden waste into a nutrient-rich soil conditioner. The composting process returns valuable nutrients such as phosphorus, carbon and nitrogen to the soil. 

Top 5 Reasons Why YOU Should Compost

5. 
Why Not? Setting up a backyard composter can cost as little as zero dollars, and maintaining the pile only takes minutes a day.
4. Conserve Water. Adding compost helps break up heavy clay soils and increases water retention.
3. Spread it Around! Finished compost, or hummus, can be used in gardens, on lawns, and mixed with potting soil for planters and hanging baskets. 
2. Save Money on artificial fertilizers and pesticides, since compost improves the overall health of your garden.
1. Reduce Your Waste. Up to 1/3 of your household waste is organic, compostable material. This amount increases in the summer, thanks to yard and garden waste. 

Material OK to
Compost?

Nitrogen
or Carbon 

Notes 
Algae or Seaweed  Y  N Good nutrient source. Rinse off if salty
Ashes: coal, charcoal, bbq  N    Contains sulphur oxides and other chemicals
Ashes: untreated, unpainted wood  careful    Can make pile too alkaline, use only small amounts
Cardboard   Y  C  Shred before adding. If you have a lot consider recycling it
Cat litter / Dog Droppings  N    May contain disease organisms; health risk
Coffee Grounds & Filter   Y  N  Can be acidic
Compost Activator   Y  N  Not usually necessary
Cornstalks / Corn Cobs   Y  C  Best if mixed well with nitrogen rich material
Diseased Plants  careful  N  Compost pile may not get hot enough to kill disease organisms
Dish Water  N    Likely to contain grease, sodium and perfumes
Dryer Lint  Y  C  May want to avoid perfumes and chemicals in laundry detergent
Eggshells  Y    Rinse and crush well, provides calcium
Fish Scraps  N    Attracts animals and stinks
Grass Clippings  Y  C  Don’t use if treated with herbicides and pesticides; may be best left on lawn to “grasscycle”; fluff it as you add it
Grease, cooked foods scraps  N    Low in nutrients; attracts animals; slows composting process
Grains & Bread  N    Slow to decompose
Hair  Y  N  Spread it out so no clumps
Leaves, dry  Y  C  Keep in balance with pile
Lime  N    Can stop composting process
Kitchen Scraps / Peelings etc.  Y  N  Plant Material Only
Manure: Vegetarian Animals  Y  N  Mix well with carbon materials; compost thoroughly
Meat, Fat, Oil  N    Attracts animals, health risk
Milk, Cheese, Yogurt  N    Best if left out
Mushroom Compost  Y    Low in nutrients, but good soil builder
Newspaper  Y  C  Shred and wet first, no glossy pages; may be better to recycle
Pine Needles & Cones  Y  C  Acidic, decompose slowly, mix well with nitrogen material
Plant Trimmings  Y  N  Avoid poisonous and diseased plants
Sawdust / Wood Shavings - untreated  careful    Use sparingly, mix well with nitrogen material
Sunflower Hulls  Y  C  
Straw / Hay  Y  C  Pile should be hot enough to kill weed seeds
Weeds  careful    Avoid aggressive weeds; dry out in sun before adding to pile

 

Setting up a backyard composter is a pain-free process, following these simple steps:

  1. Pick a location. Place your bin or pile in an earthy, well-drained, sunny spot, preferably a few metres away from any conifer trees. Make sure your composter is easily accessible, or you may forget to use it!
  2. Dig down and build up. Compost needs help from the soil's microorganisms, so remove sod and turn up the soil in your location. Your composter can be a simple pile, a commercially purchased container, or a simple construction of shipping pallets. All of these methods will work, however a black plastic composter has the benefit of retaining heat and moisture, helping to speed up the process. Whichever way you choose, keep the pile approximately 1 cubic meter in size.
  3. Fill 'er up! Add a thin layer of twigs or shredded cardboard to help the air flow to your pile, then start composting!

Follow this simple "recipe" for successful composting.
1. Materials should be added in layers, with 2 parts green to 1 part brown materials.

Green materials are rich in nitrogen. This includes most kitchen waste, coffee grounds as well as fresh grass clippings.
Brown materials are rich in carbon. This includes most yard waste--leaves, twigs and dry grass.

2. Keep the pile moist, but not wet. The pile should feel like a wrung-out sponge, not muddy.
3. Stirring or "turning" the pile every 10 days or so adds air to the materials, speeding up the process. This doesn't need to be complicated: simply use a garden fork, spade or other tool, and give it a stir.
4. Adding a scoop of soil between layers will re-introduce micro-organisms to the middle of the pile.

Your compost is ready to use when it reaches a rich, dark colour, and materials are no longer individually distinguishable.

The composting process works perfectly well in the North, but due to our shorter seasons, there are some particular tips to follow for successful northern composting.

  1. Using Activators. Organic activators are high in nitrogen. They "kickstart" and maintian the heating process. While comercial activators exist, many natural (and free) ones exist: Fresh grass clippings, manure, coffee grounds, urine, hair, feathers and fertilizers such as fish meal and bone meal. Add activators with carbon-rich materials in no more than a 1:1 ratio.
  2. Preparing Compost Materials. Chopping materials into smaller pieces increases the surface area for faster decomposition. Most kitchen trimmings will be small enough (think thumb-sized), but chop larger, tougher materials such as melon rind, broccoli stalks and pumpkin shells into smaller peices.
  3. Winter Composting. Begin a new pile in the late fall that you will add to throughout the winter. Start with a base layer of fall leaves, about 12" deep. Add kitchen scraps over the the winter, as you normally would. The freezing process breaks down the cellular walls of plant material, speeding up the decomposition when warm weather returns. In the spring, more 'brown' materials may be needed to keep the pile balanced. Use bagged leaves saved from the fall.
  4. Weeds. Weeds can be especially useful in compost, due to their high mineral content. Include weeds such as horsetail, sweet clover, seaweed, thistle and yarrow leaves. Be careful to avoid aggressive weeds (dandelions and quack grass) and any weed seeds.

 

Worms, Grasscycling and Plastic Bag Composting

Worms! Composting indoors? Yes! Start with a bin, red-wiggler worms, damp paper, organic materials and you can set up an odourless indoor composter. 

  1. Red-wiggler worms are a special breed of very hungry worms, who consume their body weight in kitchen trimmings every two days, producing rich "castings," that can be used the same way as regular compost. Common earthworms will starve if you bring them indoors and feed them kitchen peelings!
  2. The bin should be plastic, with ventilation holes drilled into the top and sides, and drainage holes in the bottom. A lidded plastic storage bin is perfect. 
  3. Line the bin with a layer of shredded paper, then start everything off with some finished compost and worms. The red-wigglers need something to crawl around in! Lay a dampened sheet of newspaper over the top, to keep the worms cool and moist. 
  4. Feed the worms fruit and vegetable scraps from the kitchen. Worms consume their body weight every two days, so if you have 1lb of worms, give them around 3.5 lb of food/week. 
  5. No bananas! There are certain foods to avoid feeding your worms. Banana peels are a sure-fire way to land yourself with fruit flies, so just keep them out altogether. Also avoid acidic foods such as citrus fruits and tomatoes. Try not to include large quantities of strong foods such as onions and garlic. 
Worms can be purchased through the following websites:
www.compostworms.ca         www.allthingsorganic.com

Grasscycling is the natural recycling of grass by leaving the clippings on the lawn when mowing. Grass clippings decompose quickly, relasing nutrients back into the soil. Clippings provide a "quick fix" of nitrogen back to your lawn, avoiding the need for more fertilizers. 

Grass clippings make up a surprisingly large portion of our waste stream during the growing season, and is one way to reduce the amount of waste we send to our landfills. 
  1. Let it Grow! Keep your lawn at least 6 cm, or abour 2.5 inches long. Longer grass protects against heat and water loss.
  2. Let it Lie! Mow late in the day and give the clippings a chance to settle over night. On average the grass clippings should be gone in two to three days. Mow in a different direction each time. 
  3. Mow it Dry! Mow when the grass is dry. If grass is wet it may clump. If this happens, simply mow over it again or place it in your composter. 
  4. Keep it Sharp! Keep your blade sharp for best results. Some mowers have a muching blade or one can be installed. These blades will chop the clippings up even finer for faster decompostition. Don't worry if you don't have one...grasscycling will still happen! 
  5. Cut it Often! During the growing season you may need to vary the cutting frequency. Cut approximately once per week during the slow season, and up to every four or five days in peak season. Frequent cuttings will produce smaller clippings what break down faster.
  6. No Thatch! Grasscycling does not cause thatch. Thatch is made up of fibrous roots and stems which take longer to break down. Crass clippings are made up of 70% to 80% water and break down quickly.  
Plastic Bag Composting is an ideal means to compost hard to compost materials, invasive weeds and weeds gone to seed. This is also a good option if you suddenly have more materials than your compost bin can handle. 
  1. Bag it. Add your materials with a small amount of water to a black plastic garbage bag without any holes. Tie the bag securely and place in the fullest sun possible. 
  2. Leave it. After a week of two, the results should be a very wet, smelly compost. The high heat inside the bag will destroy any weed seeds, so the compost will be safe to use in the garden.
  3. Pour it. It is recommended to pour the contents into a hole dug into topsoil. Leave it there for a few days before spreading it in your garden. 

 

Problem with your composter? Here are some common problems and some solutions to try. If problems persist, please call for a "compost consultation."

SYMPTOM
PROBLEM
SOLUTION
Bad odour: rotten egg smell
Not enough air; pile too wet
Turn pile; add coarse brown material
Bad odour: ammonia smell
Too much nitrogen
Mix in brown material
Nothing happening; dry throughout
Not enough moisture; too much carbon; weather may be too cold; pile may be finished
Turn and moisten; cover pile to slow evaporation; add fresh green material; be patient; harvest compost and begin new pile
Damp and warm in middle, but no where else
Pile is too small
Add and mix in more material—2 partsgreen to 1 part brown
Damp and sweet smelling but will not heat up
Not enough nitrogen
Mix in green material
Pest infestation (dogs, rodents, bears)
Improper food scraps
Avoid using meats, fats, bones and animal waste. Try rodent resistant composter
Flies
Food scraps not covered
Cover scraps with soil, compost or otherbrown material
Ants, wasps
Pile is too dry, not hot enough
Keep pile moist, with good mix of materials